Sub-desert Mesite, one of Madagascar’s many endemics. Photo: Brian Finch
The heaviest bird that ever existed, the Elephant Bird, lived in Madagascar and may actually have survived until only 300 years ago. The Musée de l’Académie in Antananarivo has the only complete skeleton, but the rest of this great red island is even today so full of strange and wonderful life forms that we’ll soon understand how something as astounding as the 1000-pound Elephant Bird could have developed here. To most of us, Madagascar is a place where evolution has run wild. Of the 198 nesting birds, 106 are endemic and another 25 are limited to the “Malagasy Region” (Madagascar, Comoros, Mascarenes and the Seychelles). Current research suggests as many as eight endemic families, an endemic sub-family and 32 endemic genera. It’s a mind-boggling degree of endemism when one considers that the continental United States, with more than twice as many nesting birds, has no endemic families, sub-families or genera!
Our trip will be oriented towards the endemic birds and mammals and we’ll spend most of our time in the eastern rainforest, the western deciduous woodland and the southern spiny desert. In addition to the birds, we’ll look at everything natural in Madagascar—plants, reptiles, amphibians and insects—as well as experience Madagascar’s friendly and hospitable people and sample widely from its delicious cuisine.
Day 1: The trip begins this evening in Antananarivo (Tana). Night in Tana.
”The Madagascar tour was excellent. The itinerary was unbeatable and Brian Finch was a terrific leader. We worked in Madagascar for five years and it was quickly apparent that Brian was far more than just a superb bird guide. He spoke both Malagasy and French, clearly loved the country, and was great fun to travel with.”
Fred and Marian Rondon, VA
Day 2: This morning we’ll visit the private garden of Tsaratsaotra where a lake protected by the resident Malgasche family holds a breeding colony of several species of herons. Among the more widespread Great and Cattle Egrets are numerous Dimorphic and Black Egrets and with the abundant Squacco Herons are a few pairs of Madagascar Squacco Herons. Along with the many White-faced Whistling-Ducks and Red-billed Teal we should find a few Fulvous Whistling-Ducks, Knob-billed Ducks and the diminutive Hottentot Teal. Other endemic birds found here include Madagascar Kestrel, Madagascar Coucal, Madagascar White-eye, Madagascar Swamp Warbler, Madagascar Brush Warbler, Madagascar Red Fody and Madagascar Mannikin.
From here we’ll drive to a local restaurant that is an oasis of greenery and is located conveniently close to the airport. While we have lunch we may be visited by Madagascar Wagtail, both Souimanga and Long-billed Green Sunbirds, the resident form of Stonechat and perhaps even two endemic chameleons. After a delicious traditional meal we’ll depart for the airport and our short flight to Mahajanga. We’ll check in at our hotel in the late afternoon and have a pleasant walk along the shore, possibly finding Namaqua Dove, African Palm Swift and Madagascar Bee-eater. Night in Mahajanga.
Day 3: An early start will see us on our way to Ankarafantsika Reserve, one of the last stands of western deciduous forest. Many bird species here are among the last of their kind. The bizarre endemic family of mesites, of unknown taxonomic affinity, is represented by White-breasted Mesite. One of the rarest of the vangas, Van Dam’s, from another endemic family, may be found ripping into rotten wood with its heavy hooked bill. A third endemic family, asitys, are present in the form of Schlegel’s Asity but they are very scarce and difficult to locate. Among the great variety of species in this reserve we’ll be looking for the bizarre Madagascar Crested Ibis, Madagascar Fish-Eagle, Madagascar Harrier-Hawk, Madagascar Buzzard, France’s Sparrowhawk, Coquerel’s, Red- capped and Crested Couas and an impressive variety of vangas including White-headed, Blue, Chabert’s, Rufous, Hook-billed and the extraordinary Sickle-billed in addition to Van Dam’s. A large dam nearby could produce Humblot’s Heron and Madagascar Jacana. Night in Mahajanga.
Day 4: After a full day in Ankarafantsika Reserve, we’ll return to Mahajanga. Night in Mahajanga.
Day 5: We’ll take an early morning excursion to Boanamary where we’ll take motor boats in search of Bernier’s Sacred Ibis and Bernier’s Teal, both of which are found on mangrove islands in the estuary. We’ll return to Mahajanga in time to catch our flight back to Tana. Night in Tana.
Day 6: Early this morning we’ll visit the nearby Tsimbazaza Botanical Gardens. It is here in the museum that we’ll find the complete skeleton of Aepyornis maximus, the heaviest bird that ever lived. There is a nearly complete collection of birds and larger mammals on display but they are rather clothed in history! In the gardens lemurs live in enclosures and among the captive birds are Meller’s Duck, Bernier’s Teal and Madagascar Fish-Eagle. Among the wild birds is a pair of Madagascar Little Grebes that usually resides on the lake.
Later we’ll catch a flight to Fort Dauphin in the far southeast. If our flight schedule allows, we’ll have lunch on arrival and afterward visit the clifftops looking for seabirds, Kelp Gull and the enormous Humpback Whales that frequent the headlands at this time of year. Night in Fort Dauphin.
Day 7: After an early breakfast we’ll depart for Berenty, a private reserve set in a sea of sisal. The abundant tamarind trees provide nourishment and cover for numerous lemurs and birds while the nearby remnant spiny forest contains a unique fauna. The delightful inquisitive Ring-tailed Lemurs make for a pleasant distraction while we search for local specialties such as Giant Coua, White-browed Owl and Torotoroke Scops Owl. Other species may include Madagascar Turtle Dove, Ashy Cuckoo-Shrike and Madagascar Paradise-Flycatcher. More obvious mammals include Brown Lemur and the sideways-prancing Verreaux’s Sifaka. A visit to the Madagascar Flying Fox colony is an impressive experience. Night at Berenty.
Day 8: An early departure from Berenty will enable us to investigate the nearby spiny forest reserve. Species such as Running Coua, Archbold’s Newtonia and Lafresnaye’s Vanga occur here but are much more readily seen in the southwest. After our delicious lunch in Fort Dauphin overlooking one of the many attractive bays we’ll catch a plane to Tulear, arriving in the early evening. Night in Tulear.
Day 9: We’ll have an early departure on the road to St. Augustin to search for the recently described Red-shouldered Vanga (at the time of writing only three pairs are known) and the very local and scarce Verreaux’s Coua. At mid-morning we’ll board speedboats for the island of Nosy Ve where there is a thriving colony of nesting Red-tailed Tropicbirds that allow very close approach. After our picnic lunch here we’ll cross the water to the mainland for a quick search for Littoral Rock Thrush in the sparse coastal scrub. Night in Tulear.
Day 10: After breakfast we’ll be on the road for Ifaty, passing some extensive swamps that harbor widespread though secretive species such as Little Bittern, Purple Swamphen and Painted Snipe. There are frequent outbursts from other rallids plus a variety of herons, ducks and waders. At our lunch stop at Ifaty, if the tide is low, we should get our first views of Madagascar Plover and other migrant waders feeding on the mudflats. After lunch we’ll have our first look at the bizarre spiny forest for which the region is renowned. Among the stunted baobabs, sinister-looking didiereas and assortment of sclerophyllous plants we’ll look for such birds as Sub-Desert Mesite, Running Coua and the Olive-capped form of Red-capped Coua, Thamnornis Warbler, Archbold’s Newtonia, Sub-Desert Brush Warbler and Lafresnaye’s Vanga. Night in Ifaty.
Day 11: This morning will probably be dedicated to finding the difficult-to- locate Long-tailed Ground-Roller. While in the spiny forest we should encounter more widespread species such as Madagascar Hoopoe, Greater Vasa Parrot, Grey-headed Lovebird, Madagascar Magpie Robin and various vangas including our first Red-tailed. Our lunch will be at the hotel, where Madagascar Bulbuls, Sub-Desert Brush Warblers, Souimanga and Long-billed Green Sunbirds, Madagascar Mannikins, Sakalava Weavers and Red Fodys come to drink in a bath specially prepared for them. In front of our rooms Whimbrels, Greater Sandplover and White-fronted and Madagascar Plovers trot across the mudflats with Ruddy Turnstone, Sanderling and Curlew Sandpiper. In the afternoon we’ll have the choice of visiting the forest or enjoying the pleasures of a tropical beach. Night in Ifaty.
Day 12: This morning we’ll have a pleasant investigation of the spiny forest only a couple of miles from the hotel. We should encounter many of the local bird specialties and photographers and interested parties alike will have the chance to examine this unique vegetation in detail. Lunch will be at the hotel and in the afternoon we’ll depart for Tulear with a look at coastal lagoons and swamps en route. Night in Tulear.
Day 13: We’ll depart early for the Zombitse Forest where we’ll stop to look for the endemic Appert’s Greenbul, found only here! Other birds may include Banded Kestrel, Cuckoo-Roller and Madagascar Sandgrouse. From here we pass through the impressive rock formations of Parc National d’Isalo for our overnight stop. Night in Isalo.
Day 14: Before breakfast we’ll have a walk around the lodge. Usually the local endemic Benson’s Rock Thrush is the first bird to greet us, as it has found the roof of the lodge to its liking. Our walk could also reveal Lesser Vasa Parrot, Madagascar Lark or Madagascar Cisticola. Leaving here we’ll cross the Plateau l’Horombe where we’ll keep a watchful eye out for the dapper Reunion Harrier. At our lunch stop we’ll be able to purchase special papier antaimora, paper with pressed flowers. After lunch we’ll continue on our long journey to Ranomafana, arriving at our lodgings in the early evening. Night in Ranomafana.
Days 15-16: Ranomafana National Park will provide our first look at the eastern rainforest, the richest region in Madagascar for all forms of wildlife. Our two full days will allow us to sample most of the specialties of the area.
Golden Bamboo Lemurs were discovered here in 1986 and almost simultaneously the Greater Bamboo Lemur, once thought extinct, was rediscovered. These events led to the park’s creation. Birds have profited from these discoveries and we’ll be alert for the huge Henst’s Goshawk, the timid Brown Mesite, Madagascar Wood Rail, the stunning Blue Coua, the secretive Yellow-brow, mixed flocks containing Spectacled and Grey-crowned Greenbuls, spectacular Pitta-like Ground-Rollers plus lesser denizens such as Green Jery and Rand’s Warbler. The more highland forest areas produce a different group of birds including Rufous-headed Ground-Roller, Brown Emutail and the elusive but stunning and sometimes very confiding Yellow-bellied Sunbird-Asity. In the nearby river and swamps we could find Madagascar Pratincole, Madagascar Snipe and with luck and an organized drive Madagascar Partridge, while the rank marshy grasses hide Grey Emutail. Nights at Ranomafana.
Day 17: After a short look at Ranomafana we’ll reluctantly depart on our long journey to Tana. Before our lunch stop at Ambositra we’ll visit some highland swamps that have not been converted to rice; in the past Meller’s Ducks have taken refuge here. We’ll arrive in Tana after dark. Night in Tana.
Days 18-19: This morning we’ll leave for Perinet, perhaps the best known of Madagascar’s reserves as it is home to the largest of all the lemurs, the tail-less Indri. Our accommodation will be in the neighboring Mantadia National Park where many species not found in Perinet/Analamazaotra can be seen with relative ease. The understory provides cover for all four species of rainforest ground-rollers including Scaly and Short-legged. Red-breasted Coua is on the edge of its range here and lives in the shade of the luxuriant growth with Red-fronted Coua. Mixed flocks of vangas and flycatchers often contain the extraordinary Nuthatch Vanga as well as Ward’s Flycatcher and Nelicourvi Weaver. Both Velvet and Common Sunbird-Asitys are not uncommon and other birds here include Madagascar Rail, Madagascar Flufftail and Madagascar Spinetail. Especially rare birds such as Red Owl, Dusky Greenbul and Red-tailed Newtonia are the stuff of which dreams are made! In the nearby Analamazaotra Reserve, in addition to appreciating Indris, we’ll look at night for Collared Nightjar, whose song is still unknown, Madagascar Long-eared Owl, Madagascar Crested Ibis, Wedge-tailed Jery and Forest Fody. We will not forget the lemurs, with luck adding Greater Dwarf Lemur, Common Bamboo Lemur, Eastern Avahi, Brown Mouse Lemur and possibly even Black-and-white Ruffed Lemur to our list. Nights in Mantadia.
Day 20: After a final morning birding in these rich forests we’ll bid farewell to Perinet for our return to Tana. On the way back we’ll stop at a private zoo where many reptiles, amphibians and invertebrates may be handled if desired. Dayrooms have been reserved for us in Tana and overnight rooms for those going on the extension. The tour concludes with dinner this evening.
Note: Those departing will be transferred to the airport in good time to catch their flight early on the following calendar day (Oct. 2, 2008).
CAP MASOALA EXTENSION
Day 21: We’ll leave for the airport and our morning flight to Maroantsetra in northeast Madagascar. Since the excursion includes a night of camping on Nosy Mangabe Island, we’ll leave what we don’t require in storage in Tana. We’ll quickly depart Maroantsetra and cross the Baie d’Antongil by boat. If the tides are favorable we may see groups of Crab Plover shortly before we cross toward Nosy Mangabe, an island famous for its introduced Aye-Aye population. We’ll spend the evening and, with the help of local guides, hope to see the Aye-Aye and, among other things, the most magnificent of the extraordinary species of Leaf-tailed Geckos and a few attractive endemic frogs. Night camping on Nosy-Mangabe Island.
Days 22-23: On day 22, we’ll cross to the beautiful and largely unspoiled Cap Masoala ahead of us. On arrival at our bush lodging we’ll have lunch and in the afternoon enter the forest for our first look. Many of the species we have seen at Perinet and Ranomafana are here as well and will be familiar to us.
Species we’ll be looking for in the forest include Helmet Vanga, certainly the most bizarre-looking bird on the island, vaguely like a small hornbill but dressed in attractive black and tan. Its most spectacular feature is the enormous bill, impressive enough but rendered unforgettable in fluorescent dayglow blue! Far rarer is the dowdy all-black Bernier’s Vanga, the barred female being more attractive. Two other very special species that are present here are Red Owl and Madagascar Serpent-Eagle. Should the diligent researchers seasonally resident on the Cap have located territories, we may have a chance of seeing these two but they are not found every year. The Scaly Ground-Roller, probably the most attractive of this endemic family, is not uncommon and can be absurdly indifferent in contrast with its behavior elsewhere. The colorful Red-breasted Coua is also quite numerous. We have two days at this location and we’ll make a valiant attempt at finding many of these species. Nights in Cap Masoala.
Day 24: After a final morning on Cap Masoala, we’ll again cross the Baie d’Antongil by boat for our return to Maroantsetra. We’ll transfer to the nearby hotel where we’ll have lunch and dinner and spend the night. In the afternoon we’ll take an excursion on the adjacent canal looking for such species as Allen’s Gallinules and African Pygmy Geese. Night activities should include a search for the bizarre Tomato Frog, only found in the immediate vicinity of Maroantsetra. There may as well be an optional night outing for another chance of Aye-Aye, but this depends largely on the weather conditions. Night in Maroantsetra.
Day 25: This morning we will return by air to Antananarivo. We’ll arrive early in the afternoon and transfer to a nearby hotel where dayrooms are reserved for us. There may be time for a final visit to locations around Tana that were seen earlier in the tour, and any species that proved elusive in our previous searches may yet appear on this final day. We’ll have a final wonderful lunch and dinner before the tour concludes this evening.
Note: Those departing will be transferred to the airport in good time to catch their flight very early on the following calendar day (October 7, 2008).
Updated: 31 October 2007
Prices
- 2008 price about $6,690
- Single Occupancy Supplement $900
- With Cap Masoala extension $8,680
- Single Occupancy Supplement with extension $1,150
- 2009 price not yet available
Notes
This tour is limited to nine participants with one leader.