2006 Tour Narrative
Our first full day in a forest patch near Teresópolis was indicative of the diversity of the bird species that we were to enjoy on this short trip to southeast Brazil. New birds kept appearing each time we made an attempt to return to the bus to drive on to a new site. And what birds we enjoyed on this day as we acquainted ourselves with Brazilian birds! Heading the list of course would be a couple of the stars of the day, including Three-toed Jacamars and a Crescent-chested Puffbird, but no less enjoyable were the two Red-legged Seriemas, the Wing-banded Horneros, the Long-billed Wren and the multitude of other species that had us all struggling to stay awake as we finished the long checklist that night.
Rain may have dampened our birding in Serra dos Orgí£os National Park but the Sharp-tailed Streamcreepers seemed to have found their element in the rain, and our views of Brazilian Antthrush along the trail were superb. Never will any of us forget the call of the Hooded Berryeater that we enjoyed close encounters with before leaving the park.
Our first morning within the grounds of Itatiaia National Park was another of those perfect birding experiences as bird after bird, lifer after lifer kept appearing. White-throated Hummingbirds, Red-breasted Toucans, Saffron Toucanets, Brazilian Ruby, Black Jacobin and Golden-chevroned and Green-headed Tanagers were just a sampling of the many species that were to keep us returning to the front garden time after time to enjoy the birds at the feeders and in the nearby fruiting trees. Our hotel offered close proximity to trails that would offer up some of the bamboo specialists including White-collared Foliage-gleaners and Rufous Gnateaters. And the feeders and hot coffee at another nearby hotel provided excellent bird viewing even in less-than-ideal weather conditions.
A day in the higher levels of Itatiaia showed the difference a change in altitude can make in these forests. Although Diademed Tanagers had been sighted around our hotel at the lower levels, the numbers seen at the higher levels were staggering. Itatiaia Spinetail, Araucaria Tit-Spinetail, Large-tailed Antshrike, Black-capped Piprites, Mouse-colored Tapaculo, Shear-tailed Tyrant and Serra do Mar Tyrannulet were just a few of the species enjoyed on this day. A clearing of the clouds allowed us to enjoy the spectacular views of the surrounding area before we started our descent to lower levels.
A morning spent along a seldom-walked trail in the park provided us an opportunity to see a White-bearded Antshrike, Drab-breasted Bamboo-Tyrant, Black-billed Scythebill and many other park specialties. Those who persevered in the search for Tawny-browed Owl enjoyed scope views with the last-minute sighting just as we were giving up on seeing the species this year. Even marginal areas can reap large rewards in southeast Brazil as was proven at the almost dry marsh where we had superb views of Streamer-tailed Tyrant, a South American Snipe, Rufous-sided Crakes and Blackish Rails.
In the second part of the trip, our time along the coast was enhanced with excellent weather. Black-hooded Antwrens and Buff-throated Purpletufts added to our list of endemic sightings during our morning at Perequíª. And the flashes of color from Brazilian and Red-necked Tanagers had many of us begging for more of the same.
Our morning at Fazenda Angelim in Ubatuba gave us the opportunity to sight yet another tapaculo, Spotted Bamboowren, while Sharpbill put in a brief but excellent appearance. A Squamate Antbird required a brief foray into the forest but gave excellent views, while Tufted Antshrike and a White-eyed Foliage-gleaner provided a bit more of a challenge. And our time here also gave us opportunities to enjoy prolonged views of Buff-throated Purpletuft.
The hospitality of the Brazilians that had been shown in our hotels from Day One continued throughout the trip as restaurants opened early to accommodate our schedules, hotels provided early breakfasts, and local cuisine was offered along with explanations of how it was prepared. Our hosts’ hospitality will not be forgotten, and neither will the incredible show that included both Frilled and Festive Coquettes, Saw-billed Hermits, Black Jacobin an assortment of tanagers and several other species, all stunning in the afternoon light.
Southeast Brazil — a place that gives sensory overload with a kaleidoscope of tanager and hummingbird colors, auditory confusion with the calls of yet another lifer close by, writer’s fatigue with the number of species to be recorded each day, and infinite pleasure through enjoyable birding hour by hour, day by day. This year’s trip provided the unforgettable birding experience that has made this area of Brazil a must-visit place for any birder interested in the Neotropics!
Judy Davis
Updated: October 2006